Busan's Best Noodles: Kijang Handmade Kalguksu

Whenever friends planning a trip to Busan ask me for restaurant recommendations, I can almost see the sparkle of expectation in their eyes. But guess what I usually say?

“Why don’t you check out blogs or Instagram? Tourists probably know the best places better than I do!”

It’s not that I’m lazy or unwilling to share. Honestly, I just don’t have a go-to list of “must-eats” that I can passionately recommend. Well, not until recently, when a foodie friend came to town and unknowingly awakened my long-lost culinary soulmate: Kijang Handmade Kalguksu.

Let me tell you, I’ve never had better kalguksu in my life. Ever.

This place was even featured on Baek Jong-won’s Top 3 Chefs show for its cold kalguksu, but I’ve never tried that version. Why? Because the OG hot kalguksu is the holy grail of comfort food for me. It’s been over 20 years since I first stumbled upon this spot, tagging along with a friend, and I’ve never stopped craving it. Every bite is like a warm hug from Busan itself.

The Hidden Treasure of Seomyeon

56, Seomyeon-ro, Busanjin-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea

Let me paint the scene for you. I live in Haeundae, so making the trek to Seomyeon Market requires nothing short of a major commitment. Usually, when I do venture to Seomyeon, it’s for a specific appointment or to chill around the Jeonpo Café District. I don’t normally head to the market unless there’s a truly compelling reason.

And this, my friends, is it.

Even on a lazy afternoon, the place had a long line. Instagram and Baek Jong-won seem to have worked their magic on younger crowds, who were snapping photos while waiting. Meanwhile, I stood there thinking, “This place hasn’t changed a bit in 20 years!”

Rustic Charm and the Stairway to Kalguksu Heaven

When you step inside, it’s like stepping back in time. The shop looks as old as it did when I first visited, and that’s precisely part of its charm. Modernizing it? No way. I bet it would lose its magic (and taste!) if they even dared to renovate.

The place has a narrow, steep staircase leading up to the second floor, where I squeezed into a tiny table. The menu? As simple and delightful as it gets. Here’s the golden rule: you must order both the hot kalguksu and the bibim kalguksu. One without the other? Unthinkable.

The Food: An Ode to Perfection

Finally, the food arrived. Hot kalguksu, bibim kalguksu, and a side of kimbap graced our table, looking exactly like they did years ago. The prices? Still as humble as ever.

The hot kalguksu stole the show with its thick, chewy noodles, fragrant perilla leaves, and garlicky, clear broth that warmed me to my core. As for the bibim kalguksu? It’s my ultimate favorite. Tangy, spicy, and just the right amount of sweet—it’s a masterpiece. Honestly, I’ve scoured Seoul for bibim kalguksu that could match this, and nothing comes close.

A New Fan is Born

My foodie friend was skeptical at first, side-eyeing the bibim kalguksu like it owed them money. But I insisted (read: borderline forced) they try both. One bite in, and their eyes widened as if they’d just discovered a new planet. “Mmm, mmm!” they exclaimed, unable to articulate how good it was.

Victory was mine.

The kimbap? Meh. It was fine but nothing to write home about. Next time, I’m skipping the kimbap and going all-in with larger portions of kalguksu. Lesson learned.

Final Verdict

If you’re traveling to Busan, you’ll probably stick around Haeundae or Gwangalli. I get it—it’s a bit of a hike to Seomyeon Market. But if you’re in the mood for a truly authentic local gem, trust me when I say you won’t regret making the journey. This is the kind of food that lingers in your memory, whispering, “Come back soon.”